Colorants And Cosmetics

Color has been used by many cultures since the beginning of time. Many different types of colorants have been used over time, sometimes without even knowing what drawbacks, side effects or health issues these colorants could have. The prime use was to beautify or make someone stand out or show a sign of power or authority.

The source of these colors was vast - animals, vegetables or minerals - these were the main sources of colorants in ancient times.

In the modern age, most colorants that are used in foods, drugs and cosmetics are controlled by regulatory agencies. In the United States for instance, the use of color in cosmetics is regulated by the Food and Drug Administration. In Canada it is Health Canada. In Japan it is the Ministry of Health. Colorant suppliers are more than happy and willing to provide the regulatory status of the colorants they provide to the cosmetics industry.

Many people don't check out the colorants in cosmetics and personal care products. It is only in recent years that cosmetics have started to carry a full list of ingredients on their packaging. This list starts with colorants and moves on to all ingredients used in cosmetic applications: emulsifiers, preservatives, antioxidants, other additives

Using cosmetic colorants properly and to their maximum efficiency is something a cosmetic formulator takes many years to master. Making sense of the ingredients in cosmetics can be difficult for the lay person. This is particularly true for colorants, which often go under the guise of numbers rather than names.

There are many colorants for many different applications. Colorants permitted in the lip area or mucous membrane may not be allowed for use in the area of the eye. A cosmetic formulator must be aware of these restrictions and regulations. Vivid reds, blues, greens, pinks, purples, beige, bright, pastel, light, dark - there is virtually a different color for every particular cosmetic application. And combinations of the correct colorants can bring this color palette to an almost infinite level. Cosmetics are truly an art form and knowing all about cosmetic colorants just brings this art to reality. The regulations are numerous and sometimes confusing but they are there for the safety of the consumer.

All this confusion for the average consumer would not be important, but for the fact that some of these colorants are known to cause problems in susceptible individuals. For example, tartrazine (also known as FD & C Yellow 5, CI 1914 and EI02) can cause migraines, itching, rhinitis and agitation in susceptible individuals. Many individuals avoid its use in food, but do not realize how extensively it is used in cosmetics, such as lipstick, and personal care products.(Remember also that these colorants can also be in 'natural' cosmetics and skin care products.)

As ever, the advice is: keep yourself informed and read the label. Here is a list of the different names and numbers that common colorants go under:

Tartrazine: E102 or FD & C Yellow 5 or C.I. 19140

Quinoline yellow or E104 or C.I. 47005

Sunset yellow or E110 or FD & C Yellow 6 or C.I. 15985

Amaranth or E123 or FD & C Red 2 or C.I. 16185

Ponceau 4R or E124 or C.I. 16255

Erythrosine or E127 or FD & C Red 3 or C.I. 45430

Red 2G  or E128 or C.I. 18050

Allura red AC or E129 or FD & C Red 40     or C.I. 16035

Patent blue V or E131 or C.I. 42051

Indigo carmine or E132 or FD & C Blue 2  or C.I. 73015

Brilliant blue FCF or FD & C Blue 1 or         C.I. 42090

Fast green FCF    or FD & C Green 3 or        C.I. 42053

Green S or E142 or C.I. 44090